In the collective imagination, Swiss cheeses are a symbol of quality, tradition and terroir. Gruyère, Tête de Moine, Vacherin fribourgeois or Appenzeller... These are all products that depend on a delicate balance between nature, climate and know-how. But in the face of global warming, is this culinary heritage in danger? The answer is more complex than it seems.
🌡️ The climate, an invisible ingredient in cheese
It's a little thought, but the taste and quality of cheese are closely linked to the climate. The grass that the cows graze on, the microbial flora, the temperature and humidity of the maturing cellars... all these elements have a direct influence on the texture, flavour and aroma of a cheese.
When Alpine meadows become drier, rainfall patterns change or heatwaves intensify, the local flora is affected. Less plant diversity means fewer nuances in the milk. And different milk means different cheese.
🐄 Less grass, less milk?
Farmers are already noticing: the extreme summer heat is causing heat stress for cows. They eat less, drink more and sometimes produce up to 20% less milk during heatwaves. What's more, the pastures suffer: the grass dries out more quickly, and the transhumance periods to the mountain pastures have to be shortened.
Some artisan cheese dairies are reporting difficulties in maintaining their usual production standards, especially for PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) cheeses, which impose strict criteria linked to the terroir.
🧫 Ferments struggling to keep up
Warming is not confined to pastures. It is also affecting maturing cellars. Many Swiss cheeses need cool temperatures and stable humidity to mature properly. However, some natural cheese cellars struggle to stay below 15°C in summer. This affects the proliferation of beneficial bacteria, the rate of ripening, the rind, the texture... and therefore the final product.
Artisans sometimes have to adapt their methods, ventilate more or invest in expensive equipment to regulate conditions.
🚜 Adaptation on the move
Faced with these challenges, the Swiss cheese-making world is not sitting idly by. Some producers are reviewing the dates on which they go up to the mountain pastures, adapting the mixes of grasses sown, diversifying the species of cows that are more resistant to heat, or experimenting with new ways of preserving milk.
Others are looking for innovative solutions: geothermal cellars, alternative ferments or hybrid maturing methods. But all this comes at a cost, and cannot always compensate for the losses associated with extreme conditions.
🧀 What is to become of PDOs and typicality?
This is one of the trickiest issues. PDO cheeses are based on a strong idea: the taste of the terroir. If the climate alters this terroir, the flavours change, and the typicality could be called into question.
In the medium term, this could even force a redefinition of the specifications for certain Swiss appellations. Can we continue to call "Alpine Gruyère" a cheese made with milk from an Alpine pasture that is less rich in flora, or produced using techniques that have been modified because of the heat?
🌍 Buying local also means protecting the climate
Buying local cheeses, produced according to tradition, means supporting the producers who are fighting to maintain this living heritage in the face of climate change. It also means encouraging short supply chains, which limit transport and therefore emissions.
Consumers have a role to play: by favouring artisanal cheeses, supporting PDOs and paying attention to the seasons, we are helping to preserve not only a unique taste, but also a balance between man and nature.
In conclusion
Yes, Swiss cheeses are threatened by global warming, but they are not doomed. With adaptation, support and collective awareness, it is still possible to preserve the richness of Swiss cheese. One thing is certain: behind every wheel of cheese, every Reblochon or every raclette, there is a silent struggle to preserve the taste of our terroir.